Gun Type Related Questions

Q. What gun types are currently supported?

We currently offer RM insert blocks for the following guns:
STI and SV plastic
SV Steel and Aluminum
1911 and Para Ord
Tanfoglio (square trigger guard)
CZ Sp01
Glock
Sig X5
Sphinx3000
BUL M5
BUL SAS
SPS
Caspian (square trigger guard)
S&W 625 Revolver

Q. Will the Glock insert fit all Glock models?

Yes and no. Not trying to be evasive, but here’s the deal: The RM holster requires a very precise fit to the trigger guard of the gun. We have found that amongst the various Glock models, and sometimes even in the same model, with various generations of molds, there are slight variations in the trigger guard dimensions. Our only option was to keep the dimensions tight, to fit the smallest Glock trigger guard we could find. So if you find that your Glock does not slide smoothly into the holster, most likely you need to slightly adjust the Slide Lock of the holster to your Glock’s trigger guard. You can read up on how to do this in the Support sections – check out the video tutorials.

Q. Can I use the RM holster for both my Limited and Open STI Guns?

Yes. The RM holster grips the gun securely around the trigger guard, and no muzzle support is needed. So the length of the gun, whether it has a comp or not plays no part, and you can use this holster with your Limited and Open guns without adjustment or modification.

Q. I have two SV guns – one with a plastic frame, the other Steel. Can I use the same RM holster for both?

The problem here is that that Steel and Aluminum SV guns are machined with a slightly narrower trigger guard than the plastic frame, which is the same as the STI plastic. That is why we must offer a special insert for the SV Steel/Aluminum.
However, a smart solution is to slightly modify the trigger guard on your plastic SV, to make it a little narrower in the front, so that its dimensions then match that of the steel frame – and then you can use the very same holster for both guns.

Q. Will the CZ SP01 holster fit the CZ Tactical Sport?

Not out of the box, but it can be modified in seconds to fit perfectly. The TS trigger guard follows the same contour as that of the SP01, but is just a hair wider. Using a Dremel tool you can modify your SP01 Slide Lock to fit the Tactical Sport easily. Follow the Adjustment tutorial video clip, under the support section of this site. Note that once you make this modification, the holster will no longer fit the SP01 very well, and an SP01 gun will be a little loose.

Q. Does the RM holster work equally well with all gun types offered?

Almost. Most guns are held absolutely solid and cannot move at all in the holster, other than draw upwards of course. The exceptions are the rounded trigger guards, as in the 1911 steel frame, Para Ordanace and the BUL M-5. In these inserts, even though the Slide Lock tooth precisely fits the trigger guard, the gun can rotate a few degrees forward and backwards in the holster. This is because of the inner and outer radios of the trigger guard are the same, and we cannot prevent the gun slightly rotating.
It is still held considerably more motionless than other holsters, but just not as still as most gun types we have inserts for.

Q. Will the 1911 insert fit any 1911 gun? What about Para Ord?

We have tried it on several 1911 guns, including a Para, Colt and Springfield. The one we found it did not fit well was a Llama. For the rest, these trigger guard follow the same profile and should work well. But bear in mind that there are dozens of models and manufacturers of 1911 guns, so we cannot be totally sure.

Q. Will the Sig X5 model work for my 226 or 228 Sigs?

No. The X5 has a wider and thicker trigger guard and we have machined the insert to fit this, as it is the more commonly used model in IPSC and USPSA. It will not fit the 226 or 228.

Q. What other gun models do you plan to offer the RM for?

During the next few weeks we plan to make new inserts for the S&W M&P, the HK USP and possibly for the 686 L frame revolver too. Other guns will be added as needed.

Function Related Questions

Q. What kinds of belts can I fit the RM holster to?

The belt holder is designed to accommodate belts up to 39mm (1.5”) wide. All belts in this category may be used. We have tried the holster on the DAA belts, CR speed, H&S and a few others. The retention plates at the back can be screwed down to grip tightly even thinner belts, so the holster can be held solidly. 2” belts cannot be used, unless you cut out a piece from the belt, narrowing it down to 1.5” at the point where the holster is placed.

Q. My holster seems to be a very tight fit on my DAA belt. Is this normal?

Yes, this is so. We believe that it is very important not to allow the holster to slide or rock on the belt, and since you fit it onto the belt only one time, we prefer a tight fit. Once positioned, the holster will not move at all. It seems some belts that are a little wider than others are a very tight fit, but we have not seen one that would not go. Use a rubber mallet if need be or lay the belt hanger on the floor (removed from the holster) and step on the belt to force it into place.

Q. It seems my tension adjustment knob is difficult to turn. Can something be done to improve this?

Yes. There are several things you can check and possibly modify if the tension screw is very tight to turn.
1. First, remove your insert and check the diameter of the hole in the aluminum pressure plate. If it is only 6mm, you can enlarge it, up to about 7.5mm. This often will reduce friction from the tension screw. The first holsters shipped had a 6mm hole in this plate, but we have since enlarged it.
2. It may be that the tension knob is rubbing against the aluminum housing. The hole in the aluminum housing can also be enlarged if need be. The first holsters shipped out with a 10.2mm hole, and we later enlarged them to 11mm.
3. Check to see that the square nut in the insert is positioned well and not causing the tension screw to stand at an angle. You can nudge the square nut back into place by applying pressure onto the screw head while it is seated in the nut.
4. A little oil in the nut can often also help – as there is friction between the nut and screw, seeing they are of very different materials.

Q. My gun does not draw as smoothly as I would like. Can anything be done?

Yes. First, see if the gun releases easier when you remove the insert block from the aluminum housing. Assemble the tension screw, spring and pressure plate, outside the aluminum housing, and try to draw only from the insert. If this feels a lot better, that would indicate that the housing is slightly compressing the insert, which is then applying friction to your gun’s trigger guard. You can solve this by sanding off a little material from the outside of the insert block, either using a belt sander, or just a file or piece of sand paper laid flat. Remove material from the outside of the block – NOT the side with the safety installed in it.

Also check if the heads of the two pins for the safety assembly are sticking out. If they are, that can cause the plastic insert to be compressed more than it should inside the aluminum housing. Best solution here is to remove the pins (press them out from the inside) and enlarge the chamfer for the pin’s head, so that it can sink in to be completely flat. Use a 7-8mm drill bit held in your hand to enlarge the pins countersunk holes.
Caution! If you remove the top pin, the small spring and ball can fall out. The spring can jump out – so keep it pointed away from your face and wear safety glasses!

Another point to check is to see if the Slide Lock is sliding up and down freely inside the Insert Block. Remove the insert to check this, it should move freely. You can also pray in a little silicon to further decrease any friction between these parts.

Q. I find the large tension knob interferes with my hand on the draw. Is there a smaller option?

We plan to offer as an accessory a much smaller tension nub, which is not designed to be turned by hand, but rather with a screwdriver, and it does not jut out from the holster body hardly at all. A few shooters have asked for this, as they said that: a. they found the large knob interfered with their hand movement up the side of the holster when drawing and, b. the gun is so stable in the holster even when the tension is loose, that they do not feel they need to adjust the tension at all, so they prefer not to have the large knob.
We should have this accessory available in a few weeks.

Q. I find the safety lever rubs on my finger on the draw, is there a slimmer version?

There will be shortly. A few shooters mentioned they felt this serrated safety lever interfered with their draw, although most were happy with it. For those asking for it, we are going to offer a narrower safety level, and without the serrations.

Q. I think the safety level is a little too small. Is there a larger one available?

No. The reason it is in this dimension is that if we made it longer it would hit ones hand when in the up position, as you close your grip around the gun. A little practice will make this safety easy to reach. Also – since the gun is held so very well in the holster, it would be rare indeed to have to start a stage with the holster’s safety engaged. In 99% of cases you can confidently start the stage with the holster unlocked – and use the lock only between stages, as it is primarily intended to be used.

Q. I feel the holster presses a little too much into my leg. Can something be done to improve on this?

We did consider adding a padding plate there, like the Safariland do, but since very few of the test shooters complained about this – we felt it was not necessary, and a shame to make the holster so much more bulky.
First, experiment with the position of the support rod – you can tilt it to the forward position where it attaches to the belt hanger – this helps to distance it from your leg for most shooters.
Another options is indeed to attach some kind of padding to the back of the holster, and yet a third possibility, although a little radical, and should be used as a last resort only, is to bend the support arm outwards a little. If you do so you will most likely see a little damage to the anodizing, but it will do the trick.
Also keep in mind that using a good and very stiff belt will carry the weight of the holster and help to prevent it from pressing on your leg.

Q. I really would like more range of adjustment in the ball joint socket, so I can tilt the holster more. Can this be done?

If you really feel you need more range, you can enlarge the hole in the ball joint housing, thereby allowing more range to the ball joint. First dismantle the holster, remove the ball joint housing, and drill the front hole bigger. You should not go above 9.5mm. you can also chamfer the front of this hole, which will allow more range.

Various Features and Questions

Q. What are the advantages and disadvantages of the Shorty model RM holster?

The Shorty RM holster is a limited run addition. It is the exact same holster, with all the same features. The ONLY difference is that the body of the holster is 10mm shorter than the “normal” RM holster.
Because of this the Shorty model is a little more compact and lightweight. The downside is that it cannot accommodate all the various insert blocks available. The Shorty model can be used only with Shorty Insert block, and the Shorty blocks include only the following gun types:
STI, SV steel and plastic, 1911 and Para, BUL M5. Other gun types, such as the Sphinx3000, Sig X5, Glock, CZ, Tanfoglio and others are available only in the full size “normal” RM holster. But, if you intend to use the holster only for the STI the Shorty is an excellent choice.

Q. What kind of screws is used on the holster, and where can I get spares?

The screws used on the holster are all Metric, M3, M4, M5 and M6 stainless steel screws. All screws can be tightened using 3 hex keys, sizes 2.5, 3 and 4mm.
We will Shorty be offering a set of replacement screws as an accessory item, as well as hex key sets, as supplied with the holster.

Q. Is it possible to get custom logos or a name engraved on the holster body?

We have done a few custom logos already, including that of the STI Euro team, who all use this new holster. We do have in stock red and black holsters without the RM logo, so a custom logo can be done, at extra charge.

Q. What about left hand shooters? Do you offer a LH Race Master, and for which gun types?

Yes, we do offer a left hand version. The left hand version does in fact use the same insert blocks, so ALL gun types offered for RH will be available for LH. Due to the small quantities we offer the LH Race Master in black only

You can purchase the LH Race Master by clicking here.

Adjustments

Insert Block Change

Customization

Fitting Belt to Bracket

How to assemble your holster

The holster is designed for use on dedicated shooting belts, which are rigid and of solid construction. (DAA Competition Belts or similar).

Loosen or completely remove the four M4 round-cap screws which hold the two Belt-Hanger Retention Bars (1) in place, position the holster on your belt, and re-tighten the four screws. Do not
over-tighten!

If your shooting belt is much narrower than 1.5”, you may need to use a spacer to fill the gap. However this will not be necessary with most commonly available belts.

Adjusting your Race Master Holster

Make sure that all testing and adjustments are done with an unloaded firearm! Familiarize yourself well with the workings of your new Race Master Holster before attempting to use it with a loaded firearm!
The Race Master Holster provides a wide range of adjustment options, to ensure that you can position it exactly right. Experiment to find the position, height, rotation, and angle that suit your needs best.

While you are testing and adjusting your holster, take care not to over-tighten the adjustment screws. You can tighten them more firmly when you find the settings you want.
Periodically check all the adjustment screws to ensure that they are fastened tightly.

The holster is designed to allow you access to most of the adjustment screws while it is worn on your body. This is extremely helpful for those fine-tuning adjustments. Always remove your gun from the holster when making adjustments.

To rotate the holster forwards or backwards on your Belt-Hanger, loosen the Rotation Adjustment Screw (11). This is the only adjustment screw that is difficult to reach in some holster positions, so you should adjust it first. For most users the forward rotation position is best.

To adjust the height of the Holster Body (5), loosen the Elevation Adjustment Screw (7) and slide the Ball Joint Housing (6) up or down as needed. The Support Arm (3) is designed with a stopper at the bottom to prevent the holster body sliding off if not tightened.

To position the Holster Body (5) closer or further from your body, loosen the Horizontal Displacement Adjustment Screw (8) and slide the Ball Joint Rod (15) further out or in as needed. This rod provides an adjustment range of about 20 mm (3/4”). A thin line marked 10 mm from the end of the rod indicates its maximum extension. Do not extend the rod past this marking or it may not hold the Holster Body (5) securely.

Swivel and tilt of the Holster Body (5) is achieved by a ball joint socket which is firmly locked in place with two Ball Joint Lock-Up Screws (9). Loosening both these screws allows you to rotate the angle of the holster and tilt it towards or away from your body. When you have achieved the position you like, tighten these screws firmly. Make sure to check them periodically.

Locking and Tension Adjustment

The Insert Block Assembly (4) includes a Safety Lever (10) conveniently positioned below the grip of the firearm when holstered. This Safety Lever is spring-loaded, so it readily clicks from the locked to unlocked position with the flick of a finger. The Safety Lever can be engaged only when the gun is properly holstered, when the slide lock mechanism is in the “full down” position.

Tension adjustment of the draw is achieved by turning the Tension Adjustment Screw (14) – clockwise to increase the tension, counter clockwise to reduce it. Take care not to loosen the screw too much (beyond the point of contact with the Tension Spring (19)), as the screw can fall out. Several turns are required to go from the loose to the tight settings.

Replacing the Insert Block Assembly

The Insert Block Assembly (4) is gun-specific, so you need a new insert when you change to another gun model. This is sold separately. Make sure your Insert Block Assembly is suited to the gun type you are using (it is marked on the front face of the block). If it is not, the holster does not function properly.

To remove the Insert Block Assembly (4), first unscrew completely the Tension Adjustment Screw (14) and remove it from the holster. It extracts with the Tension Spring (19) on it. Then, using the supplied 2.5 mm key, remove the two Insert Assembly Screws (12). Now you can slide the Insert Block Assembly (4) forward and out of the Holster Body (5). It may be a tight fit, so some wiggling may be required.
When using a second insert, you will need to use your original Tension Adjustment Screw (14), Tension Spring (19), and Pressure Plate (18). Take care not to lose these small parts in the assembly process.
Position the Pressure Plate (18) as shown in the picture. This part is directional, so make sure that the round indent (dimple) is above the centre hole and facing outwards. Hold the assembly horizontal (so the Pressure Plate does not slide out of position) and push the new Insert Block Assembly (4) into the Holster Body (5). Use the tip of a hex key to ensure the Pressure Plate (18) is aligned correctly so that the Tension Adjustment Screw (14) is inserted through its centre hole, allowing the spring to press on top of it. Tighten the Tension Adjustment Screw (14) until it catches in the nut inserted on the opposite side of the Insert Block Assembly (4).

Replace and tighten the two Insert Assembly Screws (12) to lock the new insert into place. Using the External Activation Lever (13), slide the Insert Slide Lock (17) up and down a few times to ensure it is moving as it should. In the down position, you should be able to engage the Safety Lever (10).

That’s it, you’re done and ready to use your holster with the new gun type.

Parts

1. Belt-Hanger Retention Bars
2. Belt-Hanger
3. Support Arm
4. Insert Block Assembly
5. Holster Body
6. Ball Joint Housing
7. Elevation Adjustment Screw
8. Horizontal Displacement Adjustment Screw
9. Ball Joint Lock-Up Screws
10. Safety Lever
11. Rotation Adjustment Screw
12. Insert Assembly Screws
13. External Activation Lever
14. Tension Adjustment Screw
15. Ball Joint Rod
16. Insert Block
17. Insert Slide Lock
18. Pressure Plate
19. Tension Spring

Click on images to enlarge.

Contact us

Maintenance and Care

Your new Race Master Holster is constructed of several precisely machined moving parts designed to work together and fit snugly to the trigger guard of your firearm. As with your firearm itself, every effort should be made to keep the holster well maintained, clean, and dust-free. Using a dust cover over your firearm and holster is a good practice that helps keep both your gun and holster clear and clean.

Periodically and more often in dusty conditions, remove and clean the Insert Block Assembly (4) with compressed air or a brush. If you wish to reduce the draw friction further, apply a silicon spray to the Delrin moving parts in the Insert Block Assembly (4). This loosens the holster dramatically. Do not over apply, as you do not want the moisture to attract dust.

All screws tend to work loose over time, especially in a mechanical device subject to vibration and movement like a holster. We recommend you check and tighten the adjustment screws of the holster regularly. If you are sure of your settings, you can also consider locking them with Locktite or a similar substance.

With correct care and proper use, this Race Master Holster will offer you many years of reliable service, and should you need any support or assistance, feel free to contact us.

Custom Fitting – Glock

Some shooters have experience a problem with their Race Master fit to their Glock pistols. The following should help you resolve this:

The Glock is the most problematic for the RM holster – as there is such a huge variance in the dimensions of the trigger guards between Glock models – and even within the same model – various generations of moulds used. For this reason, for the Glock customers we add a little notice on the holsters (not sure you got it) that some custom fitting may be required to get the holster working as it should.
there is simply no way the holster will fail to release the gun if the fit to the gun is correct. So lets check that.

First – check to see that the fit to the locking block is good. Remove the slide lock from within the block – and assemble the block into the holster without a slide lock. You will need to remove that long M3 screw from the back, and the slide lock will slide out upwards. Holster your gun and see that is slides in and out loosely. If not – you need you widen the groove of the trigger guard itself in the locking block. To do this, you can use a flat file, as shown in the attached picture, remove from the thinner side – not the side with the safety. you will not have to remove much, probably only a couple of tenths of a mm. Test to see that you have removed enough. when checking, place the locking block into the holster body, as that tends to close it up a little.

once a good fit is achieved to the locking block – it is time to consider the slide lock tooth itself.
this has to fit well to the trigger guard of the pistol. if it is too tight – the gun my not fit in at all – or if it does – it may be too tight for a good release. you will need a light hand, and a dremmel tool – or a small file. Look at this clip on youtube for some guidance on how best to do this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EV0t-2bVu8w

If you are using a file, I would suggest removing from the lower edge of the groove, not the top which has a more difficult contour. again – you will not have to remove much, probably just a couple of tenths of a mm. the slide lock should slide on and off from the trigger guard without resistance, but should fit snugly, so that the gun cannot wobble in that notch.

Once you have done the above fitting, I am very sure your problem will be resolved.